Adam Ondra flashed “Supercrackinette” (9a+) at St-Léger du Ventoux

Adam Ondra was able to make his first 9a+ flash at the classic climbing area St-Léger. “Fanatic Climbing” comes with the nice story:

Last week, we were talking about Adam Ondra possibly attempting to flash send ,”Supercrackinette” (given 9a+) at the Praniania sector, in Saint Leger du Ventoux, France. Well, guess what, he just did! According to witnesses, the Czech phenom looked very easy on this resistance route, while he was given beta by the bolter of the route himself, Quentin Chastagnier. Ondra first gave him a belay and checked out the moves while Quentin was putting up the draws. Things clicked between Quentin, a local fanatic bolter and Adam, who, is currently at the top of the sport climbing game. Quentin bolted the direct start of “Crackinette” (the original 8b+ start was bolted by Laurent Triay) calling the new route “Supercrackinette”. This very sustained route has no well defined crux, but rather consists of a 25-30 move resistance and finger intensive effort on a big overhang. The hardest sequence is just before linking into “Crackinette” and you need to fight until the end, where there’s an awkward 8b+ crack with low-percentage moves. It took Alex Megos 3 days for the first ascent last year!

So far, Adam has 2 9a flashes under his belt with “Chromosome Y” in Charmey and “Southern smoke direct” in the Red River Gorge (for which he suggested a downgrade from 9a+). This was not Adam’s first attempt at flashing routes this hard but he was not successful in the past during his flash attempts of “Biographie” in Céüse and “Seleccio anal” in Santa Linya. Adam has since confirmed the grade via an instargam post and perhaps, this major send of “Supercrackinette” will be seen as a benchmark  in climbing history. Time will tell.

You can find the article here.

 

Photo : Seb Richard (published by Fanatic Climbing)
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